Koh Kong, Cambodia - The Mysterious Border Province

Editors note: In the 1996 edition of the Lonely Planet Koh Kong, Cambodia is described as a territory that is mostly the domain of armed smugglers. Female travelers were considered to be at considerable risk. It was also noted that if someone took a liking to your camera (or wallet) you could kiss it goodbye.

Since that time the border crossing linking Hat Lek, Thailand [Central] to Cambodia is LEGALLY OPENED to tourists. Koh Kong is only a few km from the border.

In Roman Wanderaugh’s adventure to Cambodia by Land and Sea he encountered some problems with the river dinghy and motorcycle taxi drivers. Being the only passenger in a dinghy in the middle of a river and having to make financial and life decisions is a bad situation. One thing was sure… Superman wasn’t going to help.

The hassles left Wanderaugh turned off on the mysterious Koh Kong while traveling through on his route to Sihanoukville, Cambodia.

Freelance journalist Ken Barclay resided in Koh Kong for a year. His experiences and impressions are different. He offers his inside spin on this Wild Wild West type border area and town.

Thai Immigration Hat Lek border crossing to Cambodia. Koh Kong is only a few km down the road after taking dinghy to cross the river.

In a country that tells us to pronounce Anchor Beer as ''An-Chore'', it's probably no surprise to learn that the greater part of Koh Kong is not an island at all, but part of the mainland.

Koh Kong - It's a Province, a Town, an island; it's all very confusing!

First-time arrivals from Thailand often mistakenly believe that the boat trip across the Dong Tong River to Koh Kong town is actually an open-sea voyage from mainland Cambodia to Koh Kong Island. And, why not? If "we're going to Koh Kong", then surely we must be going to Kong Island, yes? No! Before you even step into the dinghy, you're in Koh Kong. Koh Kong Province, that is. And that town across the river, that's Koh Kong as well. Sort of...The main town, the Provincial Capital, is often referred to as Koh Kong, but is often shown on maps as either Dong Tong or Krong Koh Kong.

But, what about the island, the Koh Kong? Kong Island is where the province derives its name. A large island, almost the size of Thailand's Koh Chang, but as yet without the development. No hotels or shops; no roads; no cars; very few people - just beautiful beaches, coconut palms, jungle and even waterfalls.

An island, by definition, is a piece of land surrounded by water. And while Dong Tong doesn't fill the 'island' criteria, it could very well be described as being island-like, as the only way in or out is by sea or air. The road linking Dong Tong with Sre Ambel - Phnom Penh (i.e. the rest of Cambodia) is inaccessible at this time. However, on April 27th this year, Prime Minister Hun Sen was in Koh Kong to launch the commencement of work on the main highway, the construction of a multitude of bridges along that highway, as well as a bridge across the Dong Tong River. This road will eventually be the main link between Bangkok-Phnom Penh-Saigon. The Thai's have been improving the Bangkok-Trat road, for the past four years

How all this will effect the quiet little town of Dong Tong remains to be seen. The Dire Straits song 'Telegraph Road' may well prove to be accurate. But for those people who want to experience the charm of Koh Kong before progress arrives and tourism takes over, now is the time to go. Next year may very well be too late.

At present, Dong Tong is dying! Illegal logging and smuggling stopped 2 years ago (well, most of it anyway); armed smugglers are now unarmed; and drugs, well drugs are naughty, aren't they.

Up until 2 years ago Koh Kong was a boomtown. The 20-odd hotels and guesthouses were full everynight, a Moto-Dop could earn $20 every day, and even the [Red light] girls had clientele. But the logging clampdown changed everything. Hotels are empty, some have already closed down, as have at least 3 nightclubs. Moto's are struggling to make 100 baht ($2.50) per day. The girls have been relocated to the outskirts of town. And even the bank shut its doors last year.

Nonetheless, this quaint provincial capital is well worth a 2 - 3 day stopover.

Koh Kong's future tourism potential probably lies in Eco/Environmental Tourism, as most of the province has been declared a National Park. Even with the logging of the rain forests and decimation of large areas of the mangrove forests, there is still plenty of natural jungle, waterfalls and wildlife. (As recent as the mid '80s to early '90s there were, reportedly, still tigers in close proximity to Dong Tong township).

Depending on whose figures you believe, Koh Kong's mangrove forest area is somewhere between 30,000 - 70,000 hectares, one of the largest is S.E.Asia. During the past decade some areas of the mangroves have been irreversibly damaged. (Mangrove wood makes very good charcoal, burning for a long time). During the boom years huge quantities of mangrove were cut, made into charcoal, and then exported to Singapore, Malaysia and Thailand.

The ferry that takes you to Koh Kong from Sihanoukville or from Koh Kong to Sihanoukville.

Most of the sights worth visiting around Koh Kong can only be reached by boat. Unfortunately, there is little being done in the way of organised boat trips to any of these places, however, Otto's Restaurant may be able to put a tour together.

Around Dong Tong town area there isn't a great deal to see, but the limited number of cars in town makes for a pleasant afternoon stroll as you get bombarded with "Hello's" from every angle, and 'snorts' from the free-range pigs.

One place worth checking out, on the outskirts of town, is known as the 'Red House'. The Red House was built for King Sihanouk, just in case he should come to visit. He never did.

In the early '90s, the Khmer Rouge, after firing a few salvos into Dong Tong from the nearby hills, tookover the Red House as their local basecamp. Today, the Red House is little more than a run down old building, but its former grandeur is still obvious.

Within Dong Tong town, an abundance of accommodation is available, with prices ranging from $2.50 - $15.00. Western meals are available at Otto's Restaurant, a stones throw from the port; or, at Paul's Bar Beer Food near the traffic circle. Next to Paul's, at the Vietnamese shop, you can have rice or noodles and if you inquire, something extra special.

Related story: Cambodia by Land and Sea